Trek routes

Trek routes:
There are three routes to Sabarimala (0929 North 7706 East)
(a) The Erumeli route - the most arduous - the pilgrims cover about 61 km on foot through forest and hill track.
(b) The Vandiperiyar route - starts at 94.4 km stone on the Kotayam - Kumili road.
(c) The Chalakayam route. - the easiest of all. Chalakayam is near Pampa river. Sannidhanam is just 8 km from here.
From Tamil Nadu:
1. Shencottai - Punalur - Pathanamthitta --170 Kms.
2. Kumali - Vandiperiyar - Erumeli - Plappalli--180 Kms.
Description of Erumeli Route
The Erumeli route, used by Ayyappan himself during his forest expedition to kill Mahishi is described here.
1 Erumeli It is about 56 km from Kottayam. There are shrines for Lord Dharmasastha and Vavar Swamy (the Muslim lieutenant of Lord Ayyappa).
The first timers to Sabarimala, called Kanniswamy, perform pettatullal. Pettatullal is painting the face with colours and dancing with wooden weapons to make one look odd.
The essence of this practice is to give up ones' ego and surrender to Lord Ayyappa. They go round the Ayyappan Temple and Vavar Shrine and later bathe in the river.
Then the temple is visited again to seek authorization from Lord Ayyappa to tread the sacred hill Sabari. Later the pilgrims leave Erumeli under the guidance of their Guru for Sannidhanam.

2 Perur Thodu It is a river about 4 km from Erumeli. Lord Ayyappa rested here during his expedition. It is from here the rise begins. Giving alms here is important. By giving alms, one is disposing of all dharma and seeking asylum in Ayyappa. The forest beyond Perur Thodu is poongavanam (Ayyappan's garden).

3. Kaalaketi About 10 km from Perur Thodu is Kalaketti. The legend says that Lord Shiva, Ayyappa's father, came on his ox and tied it here and witnessed Lord Ayyappa killing Mahishi. There is a shrine where the pilgrims light camphor and break coconuts.

4. Azhutha Azhutha river, a tributary of Pampa, is about 2 kms from Kalaketti. On the far side of the river is the steep Azhutha hill, famous for its arduous track. In the 2 km of steep ascent there is hardly anyone who does not shed tears. At the summit of Azhutha is Kallidumkunnu. The pilgrims drop the pebble taken by them from Azhutha river here. This is done as the mortal remains of Mahishi was cast off from here and filled with stones.
5. Azhutha River -
6. Kallidumkunnu -
7. Inchipparakota `The next important place is the Inchipparakota where there is Kotayil Sastha shrine. Pilgrims offer prayers here and break coconuts. From here the pilgrims descent the slippery path carefully. The descent ends at Karimala thodu (canal) with Azhutha hill on one side and Karimala hill on the other. Pilgrims rest here for a while.
8. Mukkuli -
9. Kariyilam Thodu -
10. Karimalai Karimala is the abode of elephants which visits the Karimala canal to drink water. Pilgrims light the aazhi (campfire) to protect themselves from wild animals and cold weather. Karimala hill consists of seven levels and is climbed in stages. As the ascent of 5 km is difficult the pilgrims continuously chant saranams. On top
of Karimala the terrain is flat suitable for the pilgrims to rest. It is interesting to see the Nazhikkinar - a well within a well with fresh spring like water. Prayers are then offered to Karimalanthan, Kochukaduthaswami and Bhagawathi, all deities. From here after the exhausting descent one reaches the Pampa river that is about 5 kms.
11. Periya Annai Vattam -
12. Seriya Annai Vattam -
13. Pampa Nadi Pampa is the most important and holy spot on the way to Sannidhanam. It is here that Lord Ayyappa was found by King Rajasekara. The Pampa river is as holy as the Ganges. The Pampa water purifies one from curse and evil.
trek from Pampa to Sannidhanam
Pampa Feast : Pampa Annadhanam (feast) and Pampa Vilakku are important rituals followed at the Pampa bank. Pilgrim groups prepare feast with the provisions taken from the Irumudi of the pilgrims. Thousands of pilgrims are fed at Pampa. When a group of pilgrims are ready to feed the fellow pilgrims they display a large papad outside their cottage. It is usually the kanniswamy who are fed first, as they are considered to be Lord Ayyappan himself. After the feast the Guru is honoured by pilgrims prostrating before him and offering him the Gurudakshina.
Kanni Ayyappas move from kitchen to kitchen collecting the ashes which are considered to be very sacred. It is done with the belief that Lord Ayyappa would have had the feast in one of the cottages in the disguise of a pilgrim. The ash is taken home as prasad.
Pampa Vilakku : At sunset the pilgrims believe that Lord Ayyappan will be present at the banks of Pampa and the cottages are decorated with lights and candles. Small floats are decorated with lights called Pampa Vilakku and are let in the Pampa river.
The next morning after a dip in the cold Pampa river and performing pitru darpanam (offering to ones' departed soul) the pilgrims start their ascent towards the hill Neelimala after worshipping at the temple of Lord Ganapathi, Lord Rama (avathar of Balaji) and Lord Hanuman. On the foot of the Neeli hill is the representative of the King of Pandalam. The pilgrims offer their respects to the representative. After seeking the permission of the representative to visit the shrine of Lord Ayyappa they proceed with their journey. From here the Sannidhanam is about 6 km. The neeli hill is as difficult as the Azhutha and Karimala. The top of Neeli hill is called Appachi medu. Here there are two abysses - Appachi kuzhi and Ippachi kuzhi. Kanniswamys throw rice balls here to calm down the evil spirits present around the place. From this point the ground is almost even. Some distance from here is the Sabari peetam.
Sabari Peetam : This was the Kota where Shri Sabari, in Sri Rama's era, performed Tapas. Pilgrims worship here breaking coconuts, firing crackers and lighting camphor.
Saramkuthi : Half way between Sabari Peetam and Sannidhanam is Saramkuthi. Kanniswamy leave the wooden arrow they picked from Erumeli here.
Patinettampadi : The holy Patinettampadi (18 steps) is 15 minute walk from Saramkuthi. The Golden steps is such a magnificent sight. Pilgrims chant saranams loudly. After breaking the coconut they climb the 18 steps to have the darshan of Lord Ayyappa

lrumudi

lrumudi is the only travelling kit which a pilgrim carries on his head during the pilgrimage. Only those who observe fasting for 41 days are allowed to carry it. Without the Irumudi one is not allowed to step onto the holy 18 steps at the Sannidhanam.

This bag is in two compartments - the Munmudi (the front part) and the Pinmudi (the back part) & the opening at centre.

The front portion is reserved for keeping all the puja articles and offerings to the deity.

The rear part is meant to hold the pilgrims' personal requirements for the journey.
Front portion contains

Mudra bags, consisting of 2 - 3 in numbers - one for the GheeCoconut and the other two for the remaining offerings(Vazhipadu) at the Sannidhanam are as under:
:. Coconut filled with ghee for Abhishekam (bathing the idol of the Lord)+
:. Coconut (vidalai thengai) 2 to 4 nos. *
:. Beetel leaves, Beetel Nut, coins for offering
:. Jaggery (achuvellam), Cashew, Raisins, Dry ginger, Poha (thin & thick variety), Cardamoms, Dates, Honey, Avil(beaten rice), Kadhi Chakkar #
:. Dried turmeric tubers, Turmeric powder, Blouse piece, Kumkum, Vibhooti, Sandal paste, Sambarani, Camphor, Agarbathi (Incense stick), Rosewater, Lemon, Rice and Dal for offering.

+ Coconut for ghee Abhishekam : Well before the Kettunira time, select a medium size coconut. Clean and polish the outer shell using a polishing paper. With a pointed instrument, open one eye of the coconut and empty the coconut water. Close it with a cork of correct size. The coconut is now ready for the Kettunira.
* Coconut (Vidalai Thengai) one each to be broken at Erumeli, Sharam Kutti and two for Padinettampadi (the sacred 18 steps - once while climbing up for Shasta Darshan with the Irumudi and 2nd while returning after the worship
# Part of the jaggery, cashew, raisin, cardamom, honey and dates can be used to make Panchamrutam for the Neivedya; part of the jaggery, dry ginger and cardamom can be used for preparing 'Panagam' as Neivedya
Back Portion contains
Items for use of the pilgrim from the day of commencement of the journey after Kettunira till his return and is kept in the back compartment(Pin Mudi), which are as under :

Some snacks which one may require now and then during the trip and other raw materials for food items to be prepared during the journey. And pulses and rice needed for cooking can be included in Pinmudi.
After filling the holy coconut with ghee and packing the essentials for offering to Lord Ayyappa in the Irumudi (called ketunira), the Guru places the sacred Irumudi on the head of the pilgrims chanting Saranam. The pilgrims leave the place without looking at anyone or bidding goodbye to family or friends. Walking barefoot the pilgrims proceed to realise his Self and attain Lord Ayyappa.

108 Sharana Ghosham:

Say 'Saranam Ayyappa' after saying each line.
1. Swamiyae
2. Harihara sutane
3. Kannimoola ganapati bhagavaanae
4. Shakti vadivelan sodaranae
5. Maalikappurattu manjammadevi lokamathavae
6. Vaavar Swamiyae
7. Karuppanna Swamiyae
8. Periya kadutta Swamiyae
9. Siriya kadutta Swamiyae
10. Vanadevata maarae
11. Durga bhagavati maarae
12. Achchan kovil arasae
13. Anaatha rakshakanae
14. Anna dhana prabhuvae
15. Achcham tavirpavanae
16. Ambalathu arasanae
17. Abhaya daayakanae
18. Ahandai azhippavanae
19. Ashtasiddhi daayakanae
20. Andinorai aadarikkum deivamae
21. Azhutayil vaasanae
22. Aaryangaavu Ayyaavae
23. Aapad baandhavanae
24. Ananda jyotiyae
25. Aatma swaroopiyae
26. Aanaimukhan thambiyae
27. lrumudi priyanae
28. lnnalai teerppavanae
29. ega para suka daayakanae
30. idaya kamala vaasanae
31. Eedillaa inbam alippavanae
32. Umaiyaval baalakanae
33. Oomaikku arul purindavanae
34. Oozhvinai akatruvonae
35. Ookkam alippavanae
36. Engum niraindoenae
37. Enillaa roopanae
38. En kula deivamae
39. En guru naathanae
40. Erumeli vaazhum kraada -shaastaavae
41. Engum nirainda naada brahmamae
42. Ellorkkum arul puribavanae
43. Aetrumaanoorappan maganae
44. Aekaantha vaasiyae
45. Aezhaikkarul puriyum eesanae
46. Aindumalai vaasanae
47. Aiyyangal teerppavanae
48. Opillaa maanikkamae
49. Omkaara parabramamae
50. Kaliyuga varadanae
51. Kan.kanda deivamae
52. Kambankudiku udaiya naathanae
53. Karunaa samudramae
54. Karpoora jyotiyae
55. Sabari giri vaasanae
56. Shatru samhaara moortiyae
57. Sharanaagata rakshakanae
58. Sharana ghosha priyanae
59. Shabarikku arul purindavanae
60. Shambhukumaaranae
61. Satya swaroopanae
62. Sankatam teerppavanae
63. Sanchalam azhippavanae
64. Shanmukha sodaranae
65. Dhanvantari moortiyae
66. Nambinorai kaakkum deivamae
67. Narttana priyanae
68. Pantala raajakumaaranae
69. Pambai baalakanae
70. Parasuraama poojithanae
71. Bhakta jana rakshakanae
72. Bhakta vatsalanae
73. Paramashivan puthiranae
74. Pambaa vaasanae
75. Parama dayaalanae
76. Manikanda porulae
77. Makara jyotiyae
78. Vaikkathu appan makanae
79. Kaanaka vaasanae
80. Kulattu puzhai baalakanae
81. Guruvaayoorappan makanae
82. Kaivalya pada daayakanae
83. Jaati mata bhedam illathavanae
84. Shivashakti Aikya svaroopanae
85. Sevippavarku aananda moorthiyae
86. Dushtar bhayam neekkubavanae
87. Devaadi devanae
88. Devargal tuyaram teerppavanae
89. Devendra poojitanae
90. Naaraayananmynthanae
91. Neiabhisheka priyanae
92. Pranava svaroopanae
93. Paapa samhaara moortiyae
94. Paayaasanna priyanae
95. Vanpuli vaagananae
96. Varapradaayaganae
97. Bhaagavatottamanae
98. Ponambala vaasanae
99. Mohini sutane
100. Mohana roopanae
101. Villan villaali veeranae
102. Veeramani kantanae
103. Sadguru nathanae
104. Sarva rokanivaarakanae
105. Sachithananda sorupiyae
106. Sarvaabheestha thayakanae
107. Saasvatapadam alippavanae
108. Patinettaam padikkutaiyanaadhane
Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa
Om Adiyen terindum teriyaamalum seida
sakala Kutrangalaiyum poruttu kaattu rakshittu
arula vendum, Shree satyamaana ponnu
patinettaam padimel vaazhum om Shree
Harihara sutan kaliyugavaradan aananda
chittan ayyan Ayyappa Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa

The guru

The guru has a significant role to play in the Ayyappa cult. The Guruswamy is usually an elderly person who has undertaken pilgrimage to Sabarimala not less than seven consecutive years in the traditional long route and had darshan of Makara Jothi. The devotees treat the Guruswamy as Ayyappan himself. It is important that pilgrims gain knowledge from the Guru on all the aspects of the Pilgrimage. One should serve the Guru physically, mentally and verbally.
The pilgrims should give the due respect and reverence that the Guru deserves. All instructions of the Guru should be carried out without fail. The Guru will enlighten the Shisyas about the austerities to be followed. He will teach them the slokas and way to perform pooja and bhajans. He shall prepare them for the pilgrimage mentally and physically. He will lead the pilgrims safely and comfortably to Sabarimala.

The pujas

After having taken bath and worshipping the house diety, the devotee shall make all arrangements for the pooja. The photo or idol of swami Ayyapa has to be placed on a raised platform with 18 steps decorated with flowers.
The pooja procedure is as below

1. Ganapathy Pooja
(Offer workship to Ganesh's Photo / Idol / Deepam)

2. Sri Ayyappan Pooja
Ayyappan Mala Mantram-(Mantram to wear the mala)
Ayyappan Astottaram
Ayyappan Saranam- (108 saranams)
Ayyappan Moola Mantram
Ayyappan Gayathri
Ayyappan Namaskaram
Harivarasanam
Mantram for taking off mala- (This has to be recited after coming home from Sabarimala and before removing the Sacred Mala).

Sabarimala- Pilgrimage Regulations

Sabarimala pilgrims have to observe several austerities and regulations to undertake the pilgrimage.

The vritham can be undertaken only after getting permission from one's parents and Guru. It should be undertaken in such a manner as to cause no inconvenience to one's family.

The day before the vritham begins one has to offer prayers to ones' family deity and present a yellow cloth with coins within to the family deity.
The devotee must shave, clip his nails, trim his hair and bathe before the vritham. The holy garland should be cleaned and smeared with sandal paste and placed before the portrait of Lord Ayyappa. The devotee should also buy a new pair of coloured dhoti and towel or shawl.

On the day of the vritham the devotee rises early, bathes, prays to the family deity and performs a pooja to the holy mala. He will be accompanied to the temple by his Guru and recieve his mala from him.
Wearing the mala denotes that the devotee becomes Lord Ayyappa and must thus lead a pious life.

The devotee must keep away from all social activities and spend his time praying and singing bhajans and in worthy causes like visiting temples, cleaning temples, feeding the poor, helping the poor and sick and attending religious discourses.
He must eat only vegetarian food and abstain from meat, physical or verbal violence, alcohol and tobacco and intoxicants in any form. The devotee must sleep on the floor, use a wooden block for a pillow and walk
barefeet.

The devotee is obligated to treat all co-devotees as Lord Ayyappan and serve them in every way. He must be humble despite the respect and privileges accorded to him as a Sabarimala pilgrim.

The devotee must treat all women like his mother and strictly follow celibacy. He must not oil his body or his hair and must always carry a tulsi leaf with him to keep away evil thoughts

The temple

King Rajasekara told Manikandan that the Diwan was responsible for all these things and hence he should be punished. However, Manikandan told the king that he need not punish the Diwan and all had happened only through the will of God, and he told further that time had come for him to go to Devaloka since the task for which he took avatar himself on the Earth is completed and asked the King what boon he wanted from him and he was ready to give it as he was much pleased by his devotion.
Immediately, King Rajasekara told him that they wanted to raise a temple in his memory and suggest a suitable place for the temple. Manikandan aimed an arrow which fell at a place called Sabari, where in Sri Rama's era a Sanyasini called Sabari observed Dhavam. Lord Manikandan told the King to build the temple in that place and then he disappeared.

Foundation stone for the building the Sabarimala Shrine and the purpose
As per Saint Agasthya's advise, King Rajasekara laid the foundation stone for the building the Sabarimala Shrine.
Bhagwan Manikandan, had made it clear that he would grace only those devotees who offer Dharshan after performing Vritha for fortyone days keeping themselves isolated from family desires and tastes and leading a life like Brahmacharya, thinking of good things always, and that while coming for his darshan, they shall carry the holy irumudi on their heads, as the Bhagwan did when he went to the forest to fetch tigress milk, and bathed in River Pampa raising slogans of Saranam and climb the eighteen stairs.

The completion of the temple
As graced by the Bhagwan King Rajasekara completed building of the temple with eighteen steps to reach it. When the King was thinking how to put Dharmasastha's figure in the temple for darshan to devotees, he recalled the words of the Bhagwan, the River Pampa was a holy river as River Ganga, Sabarimala was a holy place as Kasi. Dharmasastha sent Parasuraman to Sabarimala who carved the figure of Lord Ayyappa and installed it on the day of Makarasankranthi, the day on which the Makara Jothi appears.
Every year lakhs and lakhs of people throng to Sabarimala irrespective of caste or creed and adorn themselves with garlands and irumudis, chants slogans on Lord Ayyappa, bathe in holy river Pampa, climb up the eighteen steps and get the grace of Lord Ayyappa, the Dharmasastha.

Adorning the jewelleries on Ayyappan on the Makarasankranthi day
The Jewel Casket is carried on head from the ancestral residence of the royal family of Panthalam to the Shrine on that day. A Garuda, the Brahaman kite, follows this ornaments carrying procession, hovering about in the sky. After these ornaments are worn on the Lord the bird circles the temple in the sky three times and disappears. Excited by this sight the devotees begin to chant "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa". A Star never seen before in the sky appears on the day of Makara Jothi day before the sighting of the Jyoti. A Jyoti is seen for a little time on the hilltop showing the presence of Swamy Ayyappan gracing his devotees.